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Post by BC on Nov 17, 2014 9:46:14 GMT 10
dgrayfz85150 what do you have against clip ons? Im thinking of doing the front end swap like DJ said but i dont think street fighter bars would look right with it. Well maybe it would. Then again I do wanna eventually take this bike to the track. Or should i just save u for a track bike. My limited experience has me questioning. Many people sa track time makes great riders.
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Post by woody146 on Nov 17, 2014 11:38:11 GMT 10
dgrayfz85150 what do you have against clip ons? Im thinking of doing the front end swap like DJ said but i dont think street fighter bars would look right with it. Well maybe it would. Then again I do wanna eventually take this bike to the track. Or should i just save u for a track bike. My limited experience has me questioning. Many people sa track time makes great riders. The rider geometry has been set up for the risers and regular bars...most of us that buy this bike don't care about power(modded fz8 is about equal to r6)..it's about rider position. putting clip ons more or less defeats the streetfighter/ hooligan purpose. That being said...I know a member that has them on his bike(also r1 front end swap) so he was able to sell me his spare rim (thank you). It it doesn't look right to me..nor does it look comfortable..and at that point..I would rather be on an r6 or zx6r or cbr600 rather than an fz8 with clip ons.(aerodynamics/ windscreen/ body work...it was designed for speed...fz8 is more towards comfort yet still pretty sporty) all of this is option based (minus rider geometry bit)...I say...buy some clip ons and try it out BEFORE you go swapping front ends (r1 drops it a bit...as well as clip ons will change rider position...may be weird..idk) try it and let us all know! i also believe DJ had the r1 front end with regular bars...didn't look any different except master amd 6 piston brakes...and black forks lol |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2014 12:44:20 GMT 10
Welcome and thank you for your service!!! Definitely take time to learn as well in between the modding process. I highly recommend the book called sport riding techniques. It's for road riding, racing and everything in between. Be careful!!
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Post by BC on Nov 17, 2014 12:58:51 GMT 10
yeah as i do more research i think more and more and im conflicted because I want to do it then again I dont. The crazy thing is if I buy clip ons now And i change forks they will be useless because I think the R1 forks are a different size. ANd yes DJ was where the advice came from and I have seen a few pictures of his bike with the handlebars I actually liked the look and the other advice towards Renthals Street fighter bars now has me at a point of rethinking design. Then again isnt that half the fun just planning ad finding out new things. At this point my main goal is buying a new shock for my rear then replacing my front end. I like the R1 stopping power and the increase of control I would get.
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Post by BC on Nov 17, 2014 16:08:37 GMT 10
And this is how i know i am young and dumb when it comes to riding. Thanks for all he advice. I seriously mean that because I know it annoying teaching the new guy. A less powerful R1 comment really hit home. I Do enjoy the comfort of riding my bike. I want to modify it and make it mine without totally distorting it. Im curious if their is any draw backs from switching to an R1 front end. and is using an FZ8 on track another bad idea?
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Post by BC on Nov 18, 2014 3:16:19 GMT 10
dgrayfz85150 what do you have against clip ons? Im thinking of doing the front end swap like DJ said but i dont think street fighter bars would look right with it. Well maybe it would. Then again I do wanna eventually take this bike to the track. Or should i just save u for a track bike. My limited experience has me questioning. Many people sa track time makes great riders. I don't have anything against clip ons. They belong on a super sport or a track bike. The purpose of this bike was to depart from a repli-racer to a everyday bike that is comfortable and functional ( a jack of all trades). Having proper bars is very important when navigating real world riding. Wider upright bars and an upright riding position allows stability, maneuverability and most important comfort. I would not go the route of spending thousands to make your bike effectively an R1 with less power. That is my opinion, you are free to do as you choose. You can get an R1 for track use and keep the 8 for riding, not 30-40 mile sprints, but actual mileage. It is all up to you and your budget and creativity. The important part is that you make the bike yours and that it is fun, not a pain in the ass, wrists, shoulders and neck. If you can, go sit on a clip-on clad bike seated in a riding position for 5 minutes. I think you might get your answer. Enjoy. With the Nitron do you think getting the track suspension is worth it? I'm thinking of doubling up one dsy with my girl but I also want to go hit the track solo. I'm trying to find a good comparison between their "sport" and "track" shocks. But yeah my plan is to have the front end and shock all together for my day at the garageneral where I will be doing alot of alterations at once. The advice will help me make smart spending choices. I thank you all for not having me spend a crap ton on stuff I don't need. |
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Post by BC on Nov 18, 2014 4:23:31 GMT 10
With the Nitron do you think getting the track suspension is worth it? I'm thinking of doubling up one dsy with my girl but I also want to go hit the track solo. I'm trying to find a good comparison between their "sport" and "track" shocks. But yeah my plan is to have the front end and shock all together for my day at the garageneral where I will be doing alot of alterations at once. The advice will help me make smart spending choices. I thank you all for not having me spend a crap ton on stuff I don't need. If you plan to race your bike, then yes get the track version, although it is about $1,100.00 versus the sport version which is $650.00 give or take.
I think the best advise I can give you is to decide if you are going to race it, do track days and street or just street. If the first and second, you may want to get the track version, however just because it is more adjustable it doesn't always mean you will have a better ride or better lap times. The goal of any suspension is to be balanced and consistent. There is no magic bullet per se. You may have your suspension set up perfectly for 90% for a specific track and still have to ride through the 10% that the suspension isn't perfect. A lot of riders get hung up on trying to make suspension perfect 100% of the time, unfortunately hat is not possible.
Example: I used to ride an RZ350 at Willow Springs raceway out her in CA a lot. I got everything 90% and would always struggle with a specific part of a wide open (130 mph) right hand turn with a weird ripple in the surface. It would catch my front tire and suddenly let it go and then the rear would do the same. I fiddled and fiddled with my suspension but could never make it behave better and actually made every other corner worse. I set everything back to the previous settings and changed my entry point and speed. All of a sudden, the problem wasn't there. - The point being, sometimes you have to make adjustments to how you ride versus forcing a bike to do something that physics prevents. Expensive suspension does not make the bike rideable. It helps but isn't always the cure.
Sit down and put together a plan, then budget and then make your choices.
Did you mean the sport vs Race pro version? I've looked at the site and they have 4 variants. Sport, track, race, and race pro. Since I'm not a rafee by trade and no one's funding me i was planning wither sport or track. I know the race pro is around $1,000-1,300. But yeah I'm planning my specs to see. If I do start racing I will probably do great with what I got and one day have a race/track bike. My FZ8 I plan for street and track use. Gotta refine myself. |
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Post by zomax on Nov 18, 2014 5:50:58 GMT 10
Welcome
I'll also throw out a Semper Fidelis.
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Post by woody146 on Nov 18, 2014 5:58:15 GMT 10
If you plan to race your bike, then yes get the track version, although it is about $1,100.00 versus the sport version which is $650.00 give or take.
I think the best advise I can give you is to decide if you are going to race it, do track days and street or just street. If the first and second, you may want to get the track version, however just because it is more adjustable it doesn't always mean you will have a better ride or better lap times. The goal of any suspension is to be balanced and consistent. There is no magic bullet per se. You may have your suspension set up perfectly for 90% for a specific track and still have to ride through the 10% that the suspension isn't perfect. A lot of riders get hung up on trying to make suspension perfect 100% of the time, unfortunately hat is not possible.
Example: I used to ride an RZ350 at Willow Springs raceway out her in CA a lot. I got everything 90% and would always struggle with a specific part of a wide open (130 mph) right hand turn with a weird ripple in the surface. It would catch my front tire and suddenly let it go and then the rear would do the same. I fiddled and fiddled with my suspension but could never make it behave better and actually made every other corner worse. I set everything back to the previous settings and changed my entry point and speed. All of a sudden, the problem wasn't there. - The point being, sometimes you have to make adjustments to how you ride versus forcing a bike to do something that physics prevents. Expensive suspension does not make the bike rideable. It helps but isn't always the cure.
Sit down and put together a plan, then budget and then make your choices.
Did you mean the sport vs Race pro version? I've looked at the site and they have 4 variants. Sport, track, race, and race pro. Since I'm not a rafee by trade and no one's funding me i was planning wither sport or track. I know the race pro is around $1,000-1,300. But yeah I'm planning my specs to see. If I do start racing I will probably do great with what I got and one day have a race/track bike. My FZ8 I plan for street and track use. Gotta refine myself. Check out a hyper pro street box...rear shock..progressive fork springs..fork oil..all in 1 kit...all made for your weight and riding style...price for the whole kit =700$ i have it and it is fuckimg awesome..went to catalyst reaction (nor cal shop..not so cal) and it was suggested to me by a suspension guru who spends every weekend at the track..I told him basicly what you wrote (street and track use...more towards street) another member umyaya also purchased it and installed it. I think he is very happy as well. Link to site. www.epmperf.com |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2014 14:05:54 GMT 10
Welcome and thank you for your service!!! Definitely take time to learn as well in between the modding process. I highly recommend the book called sport riding techniques. It's for road riding, racing and everything in between. Be careful!! Or Twist of the Wrist = pick your poison......learn, learn, learn. This is one of the most important things you bring to riding, Understanding how it is done, and willingness to learn is the key to longevity in this hobby. Exactly, both Twist of the Wrists are good, there's a lot to be said for simply learning how to truly ride. All of these bikes are more capable than most riders. I was always quicker on my first bike which was a honda cb500f than my good friend on his r6s. He just didn't really think about taking time to work on technique and things like properly blipping for a downshift while slowing down in a turn. |
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Post by BC on Nov 18, 2014 16:28:22 GMT 10
Ive started twist of the wrist 2. I guess i will be finishing it tonight and start reading tomorrow.
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Post by BC on Nov 18, 2014 17:21:57 GMT 10
 So yeah my Yoshi came in and yeah shes soo pretty. Now to buyand save up more stuff. I need to buy a stand but idk ive heard good and bad about Venom stands as well as pitbull stands. Any advice for a guy who's gonna do all the work on his own bike? |
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Post by woody146 on Nov 19, 2014 3:04:09 GMT 10
So yeah my Yoshi came in and yeah shes soo pretty. Now to buyand save up more stuff. I need to buy a stand but idk ive heard good and bad about Venom stands as well as pitbull stands. Any advice for a guy who's gonna do all the work on his own bike? Sweet man congrats! as for the stands...pitbull is all one piece very sturdy construction...I cannot speak for the others as I don't have them. I weigh around 230-240 and am 6'2-6'3. I put my bike on the pitbull stands..get on it...and run through all the gears...(was for setting up gear indicator). I saw a friend with his 08 gsxr put his bike on some stands and it fell off..stand was too wobbly to support it properly. Don't know which brand it was..just be careful |
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Post by BC on Nov 19, 2014 10:49:01 GMT 10
So yeah my Yoshi came in and yeah shes soo pretty. Now to buyand save up more stuff. I need to buy a stand but idk ive heard good and bad about Venom stands as well as pitbull stands. Any advice for a guy who's gonna do all the work on his own bike? You are going to hate me for this. Headlifting are pricier than fork lifting versions. You can go cheap, but if it falls, the money you will spend will be considerably more.
About $175.00 +/-
Get a headlifting stand versus the fork lift type. Headlifting allows removal of the forks and is considerably sturdier that fork lifting type. You will have to pay more, but it is safer and easier to use. Ask Elmo about his experience with a stand falling over......
For reference - shop around: www.motorcycle-superstore.com/45575/i/pit-bull-hybrid-headlift-stand
No no. No hate. I knew I would have to get a head lift stand because I wanted to work on my forks. It has been mentioned on a few forums about how other stands besides pitbull are trash so i will keep that in mind. That's probably my next buy whIle I save up for a new front end and Nitron shock. So question for you experince folks because this confused me why does it look like the Akra headers are held together by springs. Like they look solid in the picture then I read the instructions and they just slip together and are held with springs. I haven't bought any headers yet just found these documents on their website. |
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Post by woody146 on Nov 19, 2014 11:10:34 GMT 10
You are going to hate me for this. Headlifting are pricier than fork lifting versions. You can go cheap, but if it falls, the money you will spend will be considerably more.
About $175.00 +/-
Get a headlifting stand versus the fork lift type. Headlifting allows removal of the forks and is considerably sturdier that fork lifting type. You will have to pay more, but it is safer and easier to use. Ask Elmo about his experience with a stand falling over......
For reference - shop around: www.motorcycle-superstore.com/45575/i/pit-bull-hybrid-headlift-stand
No no. No hate. I knew I would have to get a head lift stand because I wanted to work on my forks. It has been mentioned on a few forums about how other stands besides pitbull are trash so i will keep that in mind. That's probably my next buy whIle I save up for a new front end and Nitron shock. So question for you experince folks because this confused me why does it look like the Akra headers are held together by springs. Like they look solid in the picture then I read the instructions and they just slip together and are held with springs. I haven't bought any headers yet just found these documents on their website. I have the pitbull fork lift hybrid..you can buy an attachment to do the head lift. the headers ARE held with springs. All of them are. I think the only company that will sell headers only is arrow. |
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Post by BC on Nov 19, 2014 11:18:23 GMT 10
No no. No hate. I knew I would have to get a head lift stand because I wanted to work on my forks. It has been mentioned on a few forums about how other stands besides pitbull are trash so i will keep that in mind. That's probably my next buy whIle I save up for a new front end and Nitron shock. So question for you experince folks because this confused me why does it look like the Akra headers are held together by springs. Like they look solid in the picture then I read the instructions and they just slip together and are held with springs. I haven't bought any headers yet just found these documents on their website. I have the pitbull fork lift hybrid..you can buy an attachment to do the head lift. the headers ARE held with springs. All of them are. I think the only company that will sell headers only is arrow. I'm wondering why aren't they welded to do her or something seems a crazy concept to me at least of having pipes just held together but springs. Just doesn't seem secure to me. Then again there must be a reason I'm not getting. I'm more computer savy then mechanical so I'm trying to learn. |
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Post by woody146 on Nov 19, 2014 11:23:43 GMT 10
I have the pitbull fork lift hybrid..you can buy an attachment to do the head lift. the headers ARE held with springs. All of them are. I think the only company that will sell headers only is arrow. I'm wondering why aren't they welded to do her or something seems a crazy concept to me at least of having pipes just held together but springs. Just doesn't seem secure to me. Then again there must be a reason I'm not getting. I'm more computer savy then mechanical so I'm trying to learn. It is extremely light...and springs don't vibrate off..I don't know...it seemed crazy to me at first but I put my graves together and yanked on em and they didn't move. they are attached at the head with the same bolts as the stock headers..the rest..springs(4 to 2 to 1) takes me back to dirtbike days..the pipe held on with springs. I guess it's just the way it's always been done? I'm sure one of the older more knowledge cunts will chime in |
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Post by BC on Nov 19, 2014 11:43:55 GMT 10
I'm wondering why aren't they welded to do her or something seems a crazy concept to me at least of having pipes just held together but springs. Just doesn't seem secure to me. Then again there must be a reason I'm not getting. I'm more computer savy then mechanical so I'm trying to learn. It is extremely light...and springs don't vibrate off..I don't know...it seemed crazy to me at first but I put my graves together and yanked on em and they didn't move. they are attached at the head with the same bolts as the stock headers..the rest..springs(4 to 2 to 1) takes me back to dirtbike days..the pipe held on with springs. I guess it's just the way it's always been done? I'm sure one of the older more knowledge cunts will chime in Lol I'm sure they will too. Love the wording though. |
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Post by Hoover on Nov 19, 2014 12:22:28 GMT 10
Using springs to hold the headers to the output pipes serves 2 purposes.
Primarily, from drag racing days, you could swap header pipes very easily, depending on atmospheric conditions, yet leave the actual output pipes in place...much quicker during turnaround times.
Secondly, costs. Much more expensive to static weld every pipe, and ensure tolerances. Much cheaper and easier for manufacturers to use springs and get the pipes "close enough".
Springs work, proven, cheaper and easier.
Not enough back pressure to fight them on these engines.
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Post by BC on Nov 19, 2014 13:10:34 GMT 10
Lol I'm sure they will too. Love the wording though. Springs are used to eliminate stress fractures that occur at welds and to provide movement within the exhaust system. Early two stroke expansion chambers were typically hand formed using mild steel, All the hammering into shape made them brittle, Springs allow movement while keeping the joints together. Modern exhaust are made with springs to allow easier repair/removal in racing scenarios. Also, many manufacturers use different gauge and sometimes metallurgy when assembling exhausts which expand and contract differently. Another factor is that even though bikes are manufactured with tight tolerances, there is always some degree of +/- tolerance. One more piece of the puzzle is chassis flex. All bike frame/chassis flex in concert with suspension. Again the springs allow for the flex rather than failure. Similar in theory of why airplane wings must flex. Too rigid under stress, the weakest point will fail, usually the wing strut (catastrophic) words from an old cunt. Be safe. Thos young cunt feels enlightened. Well I want Akra header so now I know why they are made the way they are.next questiom on my road of rants, questions, and comments. Who has actually been to Sturgis? I was visiting a friend today an older lady who I talk to and she said I was too young. She said 35 is the youngest suggested age and it's a time of pure Debauchery. She said this all while smiling. |
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